very quick comic. :P

i'll do the other shit later.

i was bored.



always hit the corners sideways

Fuck yeah.

To all those on the forums who can't drive a stick-shift... learn... it's sooooo damn fun.

that "Vreeee" thing does it all.

Oh snap.

Death... you should draw a drifting tutorial. :P

Hey there's Fast and Furious 3: Tokyo Drifters or something of the sort.

drift racing is by far the coolest and the most spectacular, I love it...ok, enough off-topic :P

for now, i'll put the 6 techniques to drift before i forget.

and other pages




and this...

# E-brake - Using the side e-brake to initiate the drift.
# Shift Lock - By releasing the clutch, the rear tires will lock up and cause the tail to slide out.
# Power Over - Powering out at the exit of a turn to swing the tail out for a drift
# Braking - Using precise braking and shifting to initiate the drift w/o locking up the rear tires.
# Feint - By feigning to the outside before turning into the corner, the weight of the car will shift quickly, whipping the tail of the car out during the turn.
# Dynamo - Using throttle control to initiate a high speed drift

YES!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iB9Ec3QCzcI

with a backside drift (which i messed up)

there's something I don't understand: in NFS Porsche, when I drifted to take the turns, I was always in the lead. But in NFS Underground (bith 1 & 2), when I drift the corners, the oponents always catch up on me. I don't get it, I thought that drifting is faster than braking, then accelerating in the curve's apex.

that's because in NFS underground 1,2 and most wanted. they put up that traction control system, so when your wheels start spinning, the TCS kicks in and slows your car down like fuck. :P

the same goes with new cars, the newer it is, the better the TCS is. which is bad...

now it's time for tutorial and my chicken scratch! and stretching the screen. (works in conjunction with movie)
WARNING: learn to drive manual first.




Tire Traction Capacity
Tires are often the limiting factor in any racing equation. They're variously asked to accelerate, slow, and turn the car (and almost always a combination of two), but only have a limited amount of grip to offer to any given time. If one-hundred percent of a tire's available grip is being used for cornering, then zero percent is available for accelerating (or braking). There's an old visualization technique that helps explain how to best manage all the demands being made on each of the four tires already at their maximum grip levels. Imagine a two strings tied to the steering wheel at the 6 o'clock position. The other end of one string is tied to the brake pedal and the second to the throttle, both with a little slack. Pushing teither pedal takes all the slack out of string so that the steering wheel cannot be turned. Oppositely, turning the steering wheel pulls up on the pedals.

Now, if you're going dead straight, you can use up all of either strings' length by pushing either the throttle or the brake all the way to the floor. Now imagine you are in a corner that requires a great amount of steering which only gives you a little bit of slack left in the string to apply the throttle or the brake. This is why you need to slowly undial the steering while simultaneously squeexing the gas. Same is true for braking while cornering. Get it? Run through all the possibilities and combinations of steering/ gas/ brake and imagine what the strings would allow. Remember smoothness is the key.




NOTE: AWD 4 wheel drift naturally, but the only way they can drift is by fient and dynamo

Tuning Types

There are three types of tuning, Naturally aspirated (N/A), Turbo Charger, and Super Charger.

N/A tuned cars get their horse power from high rpms. Unlike turbo tuned cars, N/A cars (aka "fuel suckers") get their oxygen from and intake, and maybe a cold air intake (if installed). This is the hardest way to add horsepower into your car, but it's the most responsive (the wheel responds directly to the pedal)

Turbo tuned cars get their horse power from a turbo charger which forces more air into the engine. This is the easiest way to add horsepower to your car, but with the added horse power, it comes with turbo lag. The car is less responsive and with turbo lag, you get turbo butt kick. Which will swing your tail even further, or into the opposite direction. The more powerful the turbo kit is, the stronger the kick. To over come, turbo butt kick, you deal it with counter steering for and RWD cars. AWD cars are normally turbo tuned, and are not greatly affected by the kick due to the fact that the sudden surge of power is dissapated into the four wheels.

Superchargers act like turbo, but they have a different effect. They give more torque at low rpm's, but they lose torque at high rpm's.

The difference between N/A and turbo chargers is like a baby with a bottle. A baby just sucking the bottle would be an N/A car. If you force the milk into the baby (squeeze the bottle), that would be a turbo/supercharger tuned car. (don't do it to a baby...)

Mmmmm... now I need somewhere to try all this cool shit out. :P

I don't have my driver's license yet. :(

and a car you don't have to pay for :P